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Map of the world

Sean McLachlan

Oxford, UK - http://midlistwriter.blogspot.com

A history and travel writer who caught the travel bug early on and still hasn't shaken it.

First map to name America goes on display at Library of Congress

Visitors to the Library of Congress in Washington, D.C., have a rare opportunity to see the first map that used the name "America" for the New World.

The Library has the only surviving copy of the famous Waldseemüller map, created in 1507 by Martin Waldseemüller, a German cartographer living in France. The map was a major departure from earlier maps in that it relied less on the received wisdom of Classical geographers like Ptolemy and more on reports by the many explorers of the time.

Waldseemüller studied reports by Christopher Columbus and Amerigo Vespucci and decided Columbus was wrong in thinking he had reached India. Waldseemüller favored Vespucci's theory that the lands they were exploring on the other side of the Atlantic were actually part of a previously unknown continent. Waldseemüller rewarded Vespucci by naming the continent after him. America is the feminized Latin form of Vespucci's first name. All other continents had Latin feminine names, so it fit.

The map is not only correct about the New World, but also portrays other parts of the globe far more accurately than other maps of the time. It's a fine work of art too, with detailed depictions of terrain and portraits of Ptolemy and Vespucci.

Museum Junkie: Manga and Moctezuma at the British Museum

Trust the British Museum to have two completely different but totally cool special exhibitions at the same time.

There's still time to catch Moctezuma: Aztec Ruler, a dazzling collection of art from one of Mesoamerica's greatest civilizations. It focuses on the reign of Moctezuma II (1502-1520), who died at the hands of the Spanish conquistadores. He ruled over a large, complex civilization from his capital at Tenochtitlan, now Mexico City. While generally known for their bloodthirstiness, the Mexica, as they called themselves, were accomplished architects, administrators, and artists, creating vast cities and delicate carvings. This show closes January 24, and it's advisable to book tickets well in advance.

Another interesting show is just starting. Manga: Professor Munakata's Museum Adventure showcases a series of Japanese manga cartoons featuring leading manga artist Hoshino Yukinobu's most popular character exploring the British Museum, along with other adventures by the professor. There will also be a special "manga coffee shop" area where visitors can sit and leaf through a selection of manga books. The show runs from November 5 to January 3.

So if you're passing through London make some time for the British Museum. There's plenty more than just mummies, although those are amazing too.

  • Aztec art
  • Professor Manukata studies the Rosetta Stone
  • Professor Manukata explores more treasure of the British Museum

Pub Etiquette: This ain't no American bar

Pubs are a cornerstone of English life. Most English people go to them and many are regulars at their "local." Because of this, pubs are a great way to meet and learn about the English. Even if you don't drink, go ahead and order a juice and soak up the atmosphere. I've been to pubs in London and Oxford that are four hundred years old! Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese in London and The Turf in Oxford are two of my favorites.

While much has been written about English reserve, this doesn't seem to apply to pubs. Generally people seated or standing at the bar are open to conversation with strangers, in fact they may be seeking it, while those tucked away in a corner table either alone or in groups aren't looking to make new friends.

Pubs have their own rules and etiquette. There are no queues, unlike everywhere else in England, but the barmen are adept at remembering who's first. When you walk in, catch the barman's eye and he or she will be with you shortly. When ordering, don't forget to say "please." Politeness is de rigueur in all aspects of English society, but to barmen especially. If the folks behind the counter aren't swamped, feel free to ask for advice about what beer you should try. I highly recommend the rich, flavorful real ales.

Tipping is not required but is appreciated, and one nice tradition is tipping your barman with a drink. Once you've been served and given the amount, you can ask, "And one for yourself?" at which point he or she will add on a pint or half pint (usually a half) to your bill. If they're busy they might not get to your drink immediately, but once they do they'll be sure to thank you again. If they've been given too many pints already, or have a stern manager, they might politely refuse. Don't take it personally, they may work at a pub but they're still required to be sober!

Met returns stolen Egyptian art

The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York announced this week that it will return a fragment of Egyptian sculpture to its homeland. Unlike the bust of Nefertiti or the recently returned frescoes that the Louvre gave up, the Egyptians weren't calling for its return for months or years. In fact, the Met bought the item from a collector with the specific intent of repatriating it.

The move is being seen as an olive branch offered by the Met's new director Thomas Campbell, and another victory for Egyptian head of the Supreme Council of Antiquities Zahi Hawass, who's been getting tough with museums who own stolen Egyptian artifacts.

The artifact is a fragment of a naos, a shrine in the holy of holies of an Egyptian temple. It was dedicated to the 12th dynasty pharaoh Amenemhat I, who ruled from 1991 to 1962 BC, and was taken from a temple at Karnak, shown here.

History and art buffs face huge temptation when they enter an antiquities shop. Beautiful works of art and evocative everyday items from ancient civilizations are available for purchase, but this history and art buff has always resisted temptation. Much of what you see is either fake or stolen (witness the large numbers of Iraqi and Afghani artifacts on sale these past few years) and purchasing them encourages the destruction of irreplaceable archaeological sites by artifact hunters.

Once in Palmyra, Syria, a guy tried to sell me some "Roman" coins made of aluminum! Unfortunately the fakes are not always so easy to detect, as there's a major worldwide industry making new things look old. Even if they are real artifacts, there's a good chance they were stolen sometime in the past.

So congratulations to the Met and Dr. Hawass for a job well done. It's a shame the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities is such a mess, but Dr. Hawass is working on fixing that too.

Photo courtesy of mikescrivener from the Gadling Flickr pool. Check out his really cool series from Egypt here.

Real Ale--the way beer ought to be

A trip to the pub is a quintessentially British experience, and if you're a beer snob like me, you'll insist on drinking real ale. The term "real ale" is reserved for beer that's brewed using traditional ingredients and secondary fermentation.

"Traditional ingredients" means there are no artificial clarificants, preservatives, or other additives. "Secondary fermentation" means the yeast is still alive in the cask, so that fermentation continues, providing a fuller, fresher taste. Don't worry about getting the microscopic little guys in your glass, because the yeast settles to the bottom and never comes out of the tap. Because they're still fermenting in the cask, such beers are often called "cask conditioned" or simply "cask" ales.

The British take their beer so seriously that they have a full-time lobbying organization to ensure real ales don't disappear under the onslaught of tasteless lagers. The Campaign for Real Ale is a national organization that promotes the brewing, selling, and drinking of real ales. They support traditional pubs too, on the basis that they're an important aspect of British culture and need to be preserved in the days of theme pubs, big chains, and plasma screen televisions.

One of CAMRA's campaigns is for an honest pour. A pint glass is only a full pint if the contents come to the bottom of the lip. While this makes it a little hard to carry back to the table without sloshing it on the ground, you will be getting what you paid for. Some people take a sip before leaving the bar, but a real Englishman can carry a three or four pints at the same time through a crowded pub without spilling a drop. Legally, up to 5 percent of the glass can be head, so don't threaten to sue if you see a bit of white at the top.

CAMRA sponsors real ale festivals across the U.K. These can be a great way to sample lots of different styles. Their website has an up-to-date calendar.

While constant vigilance is the price of good drinking, traditional brewing is actually enjoying a heyday. There are more than 600 breweries in the U.K. brewing an estimated 2,500 ales. Many of these are small, local operations that only distribute their product to a few nearby pubs as a guest ale. Others have national distribution.

Another important organization is Cask Marque, a body that reviews how pubs serve their cask ales, rating them on variety, serving temperature, and overall quality. Those that get high marks are awarded a Cask Marque sticker on their window, shown here. You can rest assured that within there are quality ales served the proper way.

If you're headed to England, Scotland, or Wales, the folks over at Real Ale Pubs have done your homework for you and have made an extensive list of pubs serving a variety of real ales. If the article I did on gastropubs whet your appetite, then check out the site Dining Pubs, which lists not only gastropubs, but pubs that serve more traditional yet still excellent fare.

Neighbors bothered by naturist B&B

Neighbors of Domain Farm, a recently opened naturist Bed and Breakfast in Staffordshire, England, are complaining about seeing more than they want to of the guests.

The B&B is a converted farm and features a sun deck, hot tub, and barbeque area, and while it's set in a rural landscape, it is within sight of other homes. This brings it into the ongoing controversy, not limited to naturism, of where to draw the line between individual liberty and consideration of others. The owners are busy planting trees and shrubs around the property, but their efforts aren't quick enough for the locals.

Despite the weather, naturism or nudism is quite popular in the UK. British Naturism, the official naturist organization, reports a membership of more than 16,000. There are numerous clothing-optional beaches in places like Brighton, and naturists are encouraged by the fact that there is no law explicitly banning public nudity, only indecent exposure. What this breaks down to in reality is that if you bare all in front of Buckingham Palace, you'll be hauled away. If you hike in the nude, you'll probably be fine. In fact, British naturists say nude hiking is quite popular, although I've never seen any on my hikes.

I have, however, seen nude hikers at Seven Falls in the Catalina Mountains near Tucson, Arizona, where nudity is clearly not legal. The falls are several miles up a rugged canyon far away from public view, so the cops don't bother doing anything about it. What with all the car thefts and meth labs in the city, they have better things to do.

So if you like to get your kit off, as the English say, don't dismiss the UK as a travel destination. The Naturist UK Fact File has tons of information. It may get cold and rainy, but at least you won't have to deal with the desert sun and cacti like those Arizona naturists!

Great drinking and dining at London's gastropubs

The pub is a fine British institution, but the eating is rarely as good as the drinking. When you order food at most pubs, what you get is a preprepared meal that's heated up in a microwave, not something that's cooked especially for you.

Some pubs do have good kitchens where they make everything from scratch, like The Fir Tree, my local in Oxford, but it can be hard to tell just by looking at a pub whether the food is good or not. If you want to get some good dining with your real ales, either ask a local or go to a gastropub.

Gastropubs are just what the name implies--pubs that pride themselves as much on their kitchen as on their bar. Last week I tried the Anchor and Hope, named by the folks over at Square Meal and several other reviewers as one of London's best.

I must admit I wasn't going in with the clearest state of mind, having just flown in from Missouri that morning and done a full day's work at the British Library. (Ever read medieval manuscripts while jetlagged? Neither had I) The meal soon perked me up.

It was a Tuesday night but the place was packed and noisy. My friend and I didn't bother trying to get a table and simply sat at the bar. Service was quick and we enjoyed watching the chefs do their thing in the open kitchen. I ordered the braised hare, and my friend ordered the fried eel, peas, mustard, and bacon.

The braised hare was tender and rich, and I found my friend's dish pretty good too, even though I am by no means an eel fan. Both dishes came with plenty of flavorful sauce and we cleaned our plates with some sourdough bread. For dessert we had custard fingers. They were good too, but nothing special, so after the excellent entrees they were a bit of a letdown. Our two meals, three pints of Bombardier, and dessert came to just 43 pounds ($70). That's good value in a city infamous for overpriced and mediocre food.

Other dishes on offer included Foie gras terrine and poached quince; pot roast partridge; braised cuttlefish and chickpeas in ink; and whole roast sea bass, fennel and anchovy dressing. As the night wore on items were crossed off the menu. This is a good sign because it means they only had limited quantities of quality ingredients, but it can lead to disappointment. I'd gone in with my heart set on the wild rabbit, tomato, anchovy, and almonds.

Located at number 36, The Cut, the Anchor & Hope is conveniently close to Waterloo station and the Old Vic and Young Vic theatres, so give it a try when you're in town, or try one of the many other recommended gastropubs listed at Square Meal.

The word "gastropub" was coined back in 1991 by the owners of The Eagle in Clerkenwell, pictured here. Gastropubs, like many other aspects of English life, are very class-specific. Working-class types tend to dismiss gastropubs as being full of toffs who don't know what a real pub is, and I have to say there's a bit of truth to that statement. The gastropubs I've been to tend to be a bit less social and attract fewer of the regulars that make traditional pubs into little communities. The three times I've lived in England I always had a local pub where I was a regular, but I've never become a regular at a gastropub.

Now if someone opened a gastropub that served Ethiopian food, that could change. . .

Istanbul's hammams becoming more popular

In Ottoman times they were the daily ritual of the wealthy and middle class. Hammams were a place to unwind and socialize while getting clean. But in the twentieth century with the rise of internal plumbing and changing attitudes, the traditional hammam declined. Many decayed or were converted to other uses.

Now hammams are becoming popular again. Turks are once again interested in their Ottoman past, and with the recent death of the last heir to the Ottoman throne, that nostalgia will probably increase. Cagaloglu, built in Istanbul in 1741, is on sale for $16 million. Another one in Istanbul's Aya Kepi neighborhood, dating to the 16th century and built by the famous Ottoman architect Sinan, is on sale cheap for $3 million, but needs extensive remodeling. At the moment it's being used to store lumber! Hopefully someone will buy this historic building and reopen it as a hammam. There's also been a spate of new building, with hammams appearing in shopping malls and hotels.

While the big historic ones in Istanbul are impressive, going to a small-town hammam in Cappadocia was one of the more memorable experiences of my month in Turkey. It was so small, in fact, that they didn't have separate men's and women's sections. Men and women went on different days. The smaller crowd made the whole experience more relaxing and the tellak (masseur) sure knew his business. As I lay on a warm stone bench he squashed me into the rock, kneading my muscles until tension fled in terror. The best feeling was when he stopped! It was only then that I realized how relaxed I was.

Lounging around a hammam is a great way to spend a couple of hours. So if you're headed to Turkey, try a hammam. The small-town ones are more sedate and less expensive, but the big popular ones in Istanbul need support too.

Customs finds snakes and geckos strapped to passenger

The fine folks at Travelocity did a poll a couple of months ago to find out the most annoying type of passenger to be seated next to on an airplane. People with poor hygiene and those who cough or sneeze came out on top, but there's one category they missed--the guy with reptiles strapped to his body.

Customs officials in Norway have arrested a man who had 14 royal pythons and 10 albino leopard geckos hidden under his clothing. He had rolled up the pythons in socks and put the geckos inside boxes, and then taped them to his chest and legs. The animals had a total value of about $10,000.

While that's pretty high on the ick scale, the scariest thing is that officials didn't become suspicious until they did a routine check of his luggage and found a tarantula, at which point they searched him. This amazing video shows him all geared up and ready to fly.

This story begs the question--how often do people get away with this? How often have you sat next to someone covered in creepy crawlies? And how would you know?

Enjoy your flight!

  • Stupid things to ask in Alaska
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  • Oral sex in a helicopter = bad, bad idea
  • Stupid tourists steal Colloseum rock - return it after 25 years
  • Stupid tourist grabs hold of moving train
  • Travel agent stories confirm Americans not too smart...

Hundreds of flights cancelled as Iberia workers go on strike

Thousands of passengers were left stranded today as workers at Iberia Airlines walked off the job for the first day of a two-day strike.

Iberia was forced to cancel more than 400 of its 2,000 flights for this Monday and Tuesday as cabin crews protested the fact that they haven't received a pay increase in four years. This is a tough situation for Spanish workers, who live in a country with one of Europe's highest inflation rates, between 3.6 and 4 percent annually in the past few years. And that's just the official rate. Living in Madrid I can say that here at least it seems to be much higher.

Spain's national airline has been hit hard by the recession and this new blow will only worsen its situation. It couldn't be helping Iberia's chances of clinching a proposed merger with British Airways either.

Information on the affected flights is available here.

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